Sunday, April 17, 2016

Bum Rap

How the End-Fed antenna get's a bad reputation

I regularly use an end-fed antenna when I operate portable because it's so easy to just get one end of it up in a tree.  I then only have to get some coax to the balun and attach a couple of counterpoises to the radio ground for the band I want to work and voila I have an easy setup/tear-down antenna solution. The higher the feedpoint the better the antenna will perform, and as long as I have a good tuner I can work a lot of different bands. 

However when used in a shack you hear all manner of stories of how the end-fed random wire antenna absolutely wreaks havoc with RF at the station.  So what's the deal?


What's going on with an end-fed antenna?

I'm still learning about this stuff so here's my simple minded understanding along with some results of my own experimentation.

So when you put some fire in the wire (remember this is alternating current at a particular frequency) the RF will run down that wire and when it gets to the end it will run back.  Part of the power will be radiated, the part that does not will come back and want to push against something.  

In a dipole the power runs out one leg and when it runs back it has the other balanced leg of the dipole to run to and repeats the process until it's radiated either as a signal or heats up your coax. The end fed wire doesn't have that balanced leg to push against so it will flow back into your equipment and radiate from there along with anything it can find to get into that your equipment is attached to.

When your portable, operating low power, this isn't very noticeable and since I'm generally operating from a battery that returning RF isn't heading off into a power supply and into the mains, etc.  But when operating from a shack and especially if I'm operating at QRO levels (gasp!) that RF can generate a hum in your equipment, distort your signal,  bite you on the hand or lip depending on paths to least resistance.  Worst case it can fry something in the shack or nearby sensitive electronic equipment.

Thus the bad rap.


Background

Here's my experience...

At my QTH I reconfigured my external 40m Windom (aka OCF dipole) to an 80m OCF Dipole.  When I was using the 40m Windom I could tune the 30m band without difficulty but the high impedance nodes occur in different places on the 80m OCF and make 30m over 10:1 SWR.  Certainly not efficient and impossible to tune for some internal tuners.  My attic doublet can tune 30m but my attic seems to be an especially noisy place for 30m and it was really limiting my ability to work 30m.  I've discussed the woes of getting antennas outdoors at my QTH previously so I was looking for an easy way to get back on 30m.


I thought I'd give the much maligned end-fed a try


I cut about 150 feet of wire and attached it to the long-wire post of my trusty MFJ Deluxe Versa Tuner II and ran it up around my room and out out my 3rd story window to a tree in the front yard.  It is very stealthy and doesn't raise the ire of the neighbors.

The MFJ matched the end-fed easily on 30m and reception was about 2 S-units less noise than with the attic antenna.  So far so good.  I made some contacts using 5w but was hearing some hum in my headphones so I knew something was rotten in Denmark (sorry Denmark).

I have some counterpoise wires running from the back of the tuner but when I took stock of what I had I realized none of them were 1/4 wavelengths for 30m.  This afternoon I cut some of my surplus insulated 18 gauge wire 23ft long, insulated the end and attached it to the back of the tuner.  I ran the counterpoise into the attic clear of other wiring and what do you know.  No more hum.

I then tried the wattage up at QRO levels and still no hum.  The RF just wanted something to push against to keep it out of the station wiring.  I got good reports from RBN stations so the antenna is working for 30m. 


End Fed performance on 30m

I know that a single counterpoise will likely create directivity to the signal so I'll need to add some more counterpoise wires but the moral of the story is that end-fed antennas are not evil, they are just misunderstood.  Like a vertical, the RF just needs something to push against.  In the case of a vertical if you have insufficient counterpoise at the feedpoint you just warm the earth. But in the case of the end-fed your equipment becomes the other side of the antenna.  Not good.


End-fed antennas can be a useful solution

If you have limited options for deploying wire antennas, the end-fed is about the easiest type to deploy.  I don't think it will give you the propagation of a dipole or doublet but it shouldn't be dismissed out of hand as an option.  Just be sure to cut 1/4 wavelength counterpoise wires for the bands you wish to work and attach them to the ground of the tuner or ground side of the balun you are using for the long wire.


Safety considerations

Keep in mind that the entire length of the end-fed wire is radiating starting right at the point where it exits your tuner/balun so position it in such a way that you or others will not accidentally touch it during operation.  Also take care in how its routed so as not to put it near or run in parallel with house wiring.

Ok so end-fed antenna's get a bad reputation for some good reasons and if you have other options use them first but don't completely put it out of the running if it can solve your antenna problem.

That's all for now

So lower your power and raise your expectations

73/72
Richard, AA4OO

Thursday, April 14, 2016

Bugging Out

Vibroplex Bug QSO

Sometimes I'm in a mood to use my bug.  I'm still a relatively new CW operator and using my Vibroplex Original Bug is both novel to me and a challenge compared to my Kent Straight Key or using paddles.

The key lineup with the Bug in the center
I purchased my bug used on a well known auction site for about $65.  It dates to sometime in the mid 1970s but it doesn't differ much from bugs made in the past 75 years.  I have added some weight to slow it down to around 19 wpm DITs by taping a heavy spacer onto the factory pendulum weight as well as adding a heavy metal spacer to the end of the pendulum.  The weight on the end of the pendulum is held on by a simple plastic drywall screw anchor.  I can pull the weight off the back quickly if I want to let it go up to about 25wpm DITs.  Without the extra weights this bug sends at around 27wpm at it's slowest speed and up to... well I don't know how fast because I can't control it at the fastest speed yet and I certainly can't copy others at that speed so I usually keep it below 20wpm for now.

If you haven't used a bug I encourage you to give it a try.  It's a challenging key to get the hang of but the effort to learn it is fun and rewarding. I especially enjoy the tactile feedback from that swinging pendulum and the the click-clacking of the pendulum against the hanging damper.

I was using my Ten-Tec Eagle (model 599) purchased used from a local ham.  The Eagle is a super little QRO radio although in this QSO my output is 5w.  If you have sharp eyes you may see that the power level is set to 7w but that is actually 5w output according to my external meter.  The 100 number under the CW symbol is the bandwidth that I was using.  I generally keep the bandwidth at 500 Hz but there was a station operating above us that I wanted to mask.

Ten-Tec Eagle 599
The Eagle is a great CW rig.  This model has 3 front end crystal filters 2400Hz, 600Hz and 300Hz giving it nice selectivity for any mode. 

I was working Ed, KG4W in VA who is an SKCC member.   If you want to work other manual key stations 3550 kHz is a calling frequency for the SKCC.  Ed told me during the QSO he was using a VIZ vertical bug which is a unique and interesting bug design.  

He reported my signal as 599 and he was 599 as well.  I was running 5w output power to my 80m OCF Dipole. He was using an Yaesu at 100w to a fan dipole.  5w was sufficient for this QSO but if he had reported me as 559 or weaker I would have raised my power to 20w to make copy for him easier.  I enjoy using QRP but when I rag chew I don't want to make it difficult for QRO stations to copy me if I can help it so having the Eagle allows me to raise my power if necessary for the communication.

The QSO

So here's the qso between two bug operators.  I hope you enjoy it...




That's all for now

So lower your power and raise your expectations

72/73

Richard, AA4OO

Monday, April 11, 2016

1 Watt in the Great Outdoors

Taking the 1Watter 40m portable

This past Saturday I was fortunate to have the opportunity to work with Paul AA4XX, Dick N4HAY, Marty W4MY and Marc W4MPS.  We hung drywall at the new shack at the Excalibur antenna site.  During our most excellent lunch break replete with Dominos pizza provided by N4HAY I decided to try out the 1Watter I'd built for portable operation.

I pulled the 1Watter radio out of my backpack and attached it to the 40m Doublet we'd put up a couple of weeks ago and used my BLT+ as the antenna tuner.  

I could tell the little radio was just bursting with anticipation so I pulled up a couple of plastic chairs for an impromptu operating position.

1Watter connected to BLT+ tuner which is connected to a ladder line fed 40m doublet
I powered the 1Watter with the same 3ah 12v battery I've used for the past couple of weeks.  The 1Watter is such a power frugal radio that a battery seems to last a long, long time.  It would probably be a good candidate for solar operation.  

What a great little rig

Using the 1Watter and BLT+ together

The BLT+ tuner has a Tune/Operate switch.  When the switch is the Tune position it presents a 50 Ohm match to the radio to protect a home-brew radio final transistor.  The LED SWR indicator lets me know when a match has occurred by going dim to off.  The RF from the radio powers the LED indicator light.  

I found a clear frequency near 7030 kHz to tune.  

The 1Watter has a number of commands built into the internal keyer.  The commands are accessed by pressing the Command button on the side of the enclosure above the key input.  Pressing the Command button sends a 'R' on the sidetone indicating it's ready for a command.  I sent the letter 'X' placing it in Tune mode which generated a continuous carrier and illuminated the BLT+ SWR indicator LED.  Obtaining a match to the antenna was quickly achieved by observing when the LED indicator light dimmed while turning the tuner knobs.  I then sent a Dit, taking the 1Watter out of Tuning mode.

I  flipped the Tune/Operate switch on the BLT+ to the Operate position and sent out my call a couple of times.  

I was promptly answered by Pete N4KXG who gave me a 589 report into Florida.  He reported using an Icom 718 running 90w into a wire antenna so neither of us had antennas with much if any gain on 40m.

Sending using the fine little Palm Single paddle key
During the QSO Pete commented on the nice performance of the little 1 watt radio.  

After the QSO it was time to get back to work on the shack so I put the little rig away in the backpack for another day.  

The weather wasn't really conducive to operating outdoors.  A cold front was moving in and the wind was really whipping the antenna around with gusts up to 40 mph.  I ran the ladder line through the slats in the back of the chair while keeping my foot on the chair leg to prevent it from yanking the tuner and radio away as the antenna danced in the air and tugged on the feedline.  We still don't have the ladderline suspended yet so about 20 feet of it was laying/writhing around on the ground during the QSO.

But the moral of the story is...

Operating portable with a 1watt radio is more than a possibility; it's a piece of cake.

That's all for now

So lower your power and raise your expectations

73/72

Richard, AA4OO

P.S.
I want to offer my sincere thanks to Paul - AA4XX for taking the pictures while I operated.


Sunday, April 10, 2016

Giving tests is more fun than taking them

Yay, I'm a Volunteer Examiner (VE)

After passing my Extra Class license exam I wanted to take the next step and give back to the hobby by serving as a Volunteer Examiner.  I took the open book test and sent in my paperwork to the ARRL to become accredited.  

VE accreditation 

Since receiving my VE accreditation I had a privilege of serving as a VE at a testing session today (No photos from the test session in this post because the results of the testing sessions are private).  

I enjoyed being able to personally say congratulations to new hams and those getting their upgrades. Those who failed to pass were heartily encouraged to not give up.  There was also fun camaraderie amongst the VE's there.  One of them was a fellow CW operator (W8WZ) who shared some good information with me.

If you have an Extra ticket I encourage you to serve the hobby in this capacity. 
So lower your power and raise your expectations

73/72

Richard, AA4OO

Tuesday, April 5, 2016

Get your news the old fashioned way

Morse News

I'm always looking for ways to improve my CW copy skills.  When I'm away from the radio and have some spare time I use a program called Morse News.

Morse News interface displaying a "Top 100 words" feed scrolling at the bottom

It's an application that pulls RSS feeds and translates them to Morse.  It has useful configuration options and even allows different "sounders" to be used. 
For instance: you can listen to Morse the way railroad and Civil War telegraphers heard it via the clacking Telegraph sounder, or the early 20th century spark gap transmitters.

The application is free but only runs on Windows computers.  I'd love to see something like this for my phone.
As with all software downloads from an untrusted source use your own best judgement whether to install this software and protect yourself from malware.  I haven't detected any malware from my install but that doesn't mean it's not there.
 
Here's the link: http://sourceforge.net/projects/morse-rss-news/files/Morse%20Code%20Tools%203.2/MorseTools32Setup.exe/download


That's all for now

So lower your power and raise your expectations

72/73

Richard, AA4OO

Wednesday, March 30, 2016

Swinging QRP

Park Swing QRP

During lunch today I went to nearby city park.  I threw my end-fed antenna up in a tree and made a couple of contacts on 40m while rocking on the swing.

Beautiful weather, a swing and CW.  What more could you ask for?

Well, if I'd only had my Vibroplex Bug with me I could have been swinging the CW while I was swinging on the bench.

operating position

The radio and log
That's all for now

So lower your power and raise your expectations.

72/73
Richard, AA4OO

Tuesday, March 29, 2016

It's ALIVE !

The 1Watter 40m #551 -- Lives

The 1Watter 40m on it's inaugural QSO
Inside the enclosure

The 1Watter is a kit from kits and parts dot com 

The Universal 1Watter (also called the 1H2O) is a full featured little superhet radio transceiver that you can build for about $50.  It doesn't come with an enclosure, a tuning pot, speed pot or an on/off switch so that will cost extra unless you already have some in the junk bin.

Some of the features include; 
  • 1 mighty watt of output
  • Good selectivity from the 3 crystal filters
  • A VCXO tuned frequency range for the 40m band from approximately 7,020 kHz through 7,039 kHz
  • A built-in full functioned keyer with provision for adding a speed pot and messages
    • Included command button accesses the functions of the electronic keyer
    • Natural sounding sidetone (nicer than my Ten-Tec Century/21)

The Build

The kit is delivered in a box and inside are a couple of brown paper bags stapled together.  Inside one of the bags are a couple of plastic bags with the components.  The other bag contained the header kit.  The ferrite toroid mix types are separated in different unmarked plastic bags so don't mix them up (the instructions tell you which bag has each mix).  If anything is missing the kit supplier (Diz, W8DIZ) is very responsive.  

The kit includes both SMT caps and through hole caps.  I tried to solder one of the SMTs but I didn't have the right kind of tweezers to hold it in position for soldering so I used the through hole caps.

SMT and through hole caps are supplied

This is the 3rd revision of the Universal 1Watter board and I was the first to build the 40m version.  

While the schematic was correct, some of the instructions weren't sorted out properly for the 40m kit.  I related issues as I found them to the designer and he promptly updated the online documentation.

I soldered the components and wound toroids as I had time over a few evenings and the initial voltage tests went well.

using through hole capacitors rather than the SMTs
some of the bits and bobs
build is progressing
close up
XTAL filters give it good selectivity
Everything except the final transistor
AGC circuit

Debugging

When the build was completed I connected the rig to an antenna and heard nothing.

The keying circuit and transmitter worked fine and I verified those functions but the receiver was deaf as a stump.

Thus began a number of days of investigation.  Diz (the creator of the board) guided me through a number of debugging steps.  

The first recommendation was to examine and rewind the binocular toroid balun that transformed the impedance from the xtal filters to the input of the U5 oscillator.  He believed that I may had wound it incorrectly.  I desoldered it and rewound it but that did not resolve the issue.

He then guided me through determining if one of the filter crystals or filter capacitors was bad.  I desoldered a few components as a tests but that did not resolve the issue.

There are 3 identical mixer chips on the board.  I swapped them around as there was a suggestion that there were some faulty chips in one of Diz's shipments.

I then took the board to my Elmer Paul Stroud AA4XX.  He had a signal generator, Oscilloscope and RF detector.  He traced the RF and all looked well but we still were unable to obtain any signal through the U5 mixer.  Lastly we tried disconnecting the AGC transistor to see if it was clamping it and that didn't resolve it either.

Diz asked me to return the radio to him so he could take a look.  After a couple weeks he emailed me saying he thought the BFO xtal might have a problem.  But he later discovered that the oscillator in U5 was not starting up.  Apparently the circuit design had a low Q and needed more current to get the oscillator working.  He modified the design, adding a 16k resistor to the bottom of the board on U5 to get the oscillator going.  After that all was well and he shipped the board back to me.


The FIX for all those problems required an extra resistor connected across U5

Learning from problems

Being the first person to build a particular version of a kit brings its own set of challenges, especially when you're as new to kit building debugging RF problems as I am.  However I'm actually glad the kit didn't work right at the initial build.

The process of debugging the board, was a great learning process.  I studied the schematics and learned, as best I could, the function of each circuit so that I could better understand how to test it.  During the debugging process Diz instructed me that although RF signal generators and scopes are useful you can tell a lot by touching a RF component with an inductive metal object and listening for a buzz or hum from the BFO.


So all-in-all, even though the bug in the board was not due to a error on my part, I'm glad it occurred.  I understand more about superhet radio design than I did before and more than if the kit had worked right off the bat.

On the air

After receiving the board back, I hooked up the frequency XCO potentiometer, paddle, command button, audio and output potentiometer and an external speaker.  I then connected a 12v battery and heard the 1H2O keyer chip announce itself at power up in Morse "1 W". 


Frequency control pot on the left
Volume control, output jack, cmd pot and paddle input
You can change speeds and modify settings via the command button which I have not reviewed yet.  I also plan to add the speed pot so that I can easily change keyer speed without entering the command menu. 

For this first on-air excursion I was using it at the default startup 15wpm keyer speed.  You can default the speed higher with a different resistor value.  


I have a resistor shrink wrapped and connected in-line to the blue-white wire coiling above the radio connecting to the speed pot terminal.  In essence fixing the speed at 15wpm until I add the speed pot.



Ready to transmit


On the air... I was using my paddle out of the photo to the right of the Bug

First On Air QSO

I tuned around and found a strong station at the end of a QSO near 7030 kHz.  

When he sent the final dit-dit I called and WD4AXJ answered my first call.  He was in TN near Knoxville, and I received a 559.  We chatted for about 10 minutes. Sorry about the blurry video.  I thought I'd focused.


After I recorded this video I found an open frequency and sent out my call.  Very shortly thereafter KD2FSH answered my call and reported me as 599! 

Whoo - hoo.  599 for my little 1Watter 40m.

I was transmitting using my 40m attic antenna.  So deed restricted HAMs take note.  You can build a one-watt radio and make contacts using your attic antenna. Haha.

You'll hear in the video there is some weirdness going on with the audio derived AGC.  It is clamping down sometimes and is worse when I don't have the volume turned up very loud.  When I began calling it clamped after every semi-break-in but didn't do it much after that.  I'll have to look into that.

The AGC clamping may be a side effect of the increased gain Diz added to the BFO oscillator.  I'll ask the forum.  

Other than the AGC issue I'm super pleased with the little board.  I touched the heat sync a couple of times after transmitting my side of the qso and it was warm but not really hot.  It seems as though as long as you have a reasonable match to the antenna the power transistor should be happy.

My next steps are to get it in an enclosure and get it out to the Excalibur antenna site to hook onto that nice 40m doublet we put up a couple weekends ago.  I plan to use my efficient little BLT tuner for that purpose.  I will do a further review of the feature set on the keyer and record some more qsos for a later review.

Summary

The band was fairly busy and the little 1Watter did a fine job with stations on nearby frequencies. You can hear some getting around the passband but it is not bad at all.  I'll do some tests to further define it's selectivity but at first glance it is far better than my old Ten-Tec Century/21.  

My calls were answered quickly and I received good signal reports. It didn't sound as though the transmitter was drifting at all during the QSO. That's one advantage of using VCXO in the design.  The disadvantage of using a crystal controlled oscillator for the frequency control is limited tuning range.  The transmitter only has about a 18 kHz tuning range around 7030 kHz and I don't find many of the SKCC folks around that frequency but it is the QRP watering hole for 40m.

It is possible to shift the frequency with some capacitance changes but I think I'll leave it as is for a time and see how many states I can work.

Just imagine.  This little $50 single band kit has good selectivity, a nice built-in keyer with a natural sounding sidetone, and lest we forget... You get a MIGHTY 1 WATT of OUTPUT.  What more could a QRP ham need.


That one-watt of output was sufficient for all the QSOs I attempted tonight.

So lower your power and raise your expectations

72/73

Richard, AA4OO

UPDATE: 04/01/2016

I am still having the AGC pumping issue and others on the list have reported similar issues but only on receive.  It happens to me when I key unless I turn up the volume very high.  I did get it installed in a case but I still need to wire up a real power connector rather than using alligator clips.

!Watter installed in a case

UPDATE: 04/05/2016

After doing quite a bit of reading I learned that the LM386 op-amp used in the 1watter is rather notorious for audio oscillations.  There are a number of suggested fixes.  I went with a 4.7uf cap connecting Pin 7 on U6 (the LM386) to ground.  That hasn't totally resolved the issue but it's much less pronounced now.  


cap fix for LM386 oscillations
I have it in the case with all the proper plugs now (see below) so I'm happy.  I've been making QSOs every day with it and it continues to amaze me and the stations that work me.  It is stable as a rock with regard to frequency and the large knob with the single turn 10k pot seems to work well for tuning.  I have enough control to vary the frequency slightly without having to turn it too much.  The tuning range is only about 20kHz so just 3 frequency markers are plenty to let me know what frequency I'm near.  The selectivity is just fantastic for such a simple little radio.  Diz has created an inexpensive winner.

1Watter in enclosure with all the proper connectors for the case


Information on case and knobs:
JPM Supply


CodeItemQtyPriceGrand Total
44088Aluminum Electronics Project Box 4.73 x 3.62 x 2.09 inches Enclosure1$7.99$7.99
62411Round Knob 1/4 Shaft with White Indicator1$0.99$0.99
62424Knob, 1.28" Black with white indicator, 6mm Shaft with set screw1$0.89$0.89
62405Round Star Knob 1/4 Shaft with White Indicator1$0.99$0.99