My burgeoning QRP station was getting messy, having stuff strewn all over the desk, so I made a shelf from some junk laying around to give me some vertical space. It is much more organized now.
A shelf helps
Left to right top shelf:
Ozark Patrol Regen Receiver Kit, MFJ Versa Tuner providing both tuning and antenna switching duties, Two Position Rig switch on top (blue box), Ham Keyer (circa '78) electronic keyer
Left to right under shelf:
Yaesu HT connected to home-brew J-Pole in attic, two switching power supplies, VHF/UHF meter, Elecraft KX3, Ten-Tec Century/21 (circa '77), Homebrew frequency counter on top of TT)
Three keys:
Bencher paddles, Vibroplex Bug, Kent Hand Key
That's all for now.
Before participating in last night's NAQCC Sprint I had previously stumbled into responding to a CQ that was for a contest last week. The calling station was patient with me and was looking for specific information which he tried to repeatedly coach out of me. It was frustrating not knowing how I was supposed to reply.
CW contests occur frequently on the HF bands so as a new CW operator you're very likely to accidentally respond to a caller in a contest. A CW contestor uses an extra couple of letters thrown into the CQ to identify the call as being for a contest. Sometimes stations may send "CQ TEST" which I would think means they are testing something but apparently that is shorthand for a contest. I've done web searches on CW contests but it's not clear to me if they are organized or described in any one place for the HF bands or have information for total newbies. I also haven't found if there's a standard formula for interacting with a contest or if they are each unique.
I became a member of the North American QRP Club a couple of weeks ago, at AA4XX's suggestion, to get on the mailing list to learn about QRP CW operations. I received an email saying there'd be a "Sprint" contest that evening so I thought I'd give it a try.
I went to the website where it described the contest protocol as follows:
Send "CQ NA your_call"; then respond with "RST state abbreviation and NAQCC#".
That seemed simple enough even for me.
The Sprint Begins
A thunderstorm with big scary lightning delayed my getting on the air, but once the storm cleared I turned on the KX3, re-connected the antenna and began listening. Keep in mind that the contest is for QRP (low power) stations so the signals are weak, fade in and out and are generally hard for my less skilled CW ear to copy. I turned up the volume and listened through the static crashes of lightning from the recently departed storm. Stations seemed to be sending different information than what the website indicated but it turned out it was just in a shorthand format that I was unaccustomed to hearing.
scribbled listener log
As I kept listening I could make out a general pattern used by the contestants. Maybe the following will help some other new CW operator who's trying to figure out what's going on:
The calling station sends:
CQ NA N4PBQ N4PBQ K
The responding station doesn't go through the niceties of calling station "DE" their station they simply send their call a couple of times:
N9KK N9KK
The calling station then responds with a shorthand report and info required for the contest. No To/From nonsense or even the RST abbreviation. Just an "X" (I assume is shorthand for here's your xmitted RST) the state repeated and the number. I thought stations were sending an"X" but after listening to other contests I think I was mis-copying a "TU" as an "X". So I believe it should be a "TU" which I think means "Thank You".
I didn't hear anyone repeat their club number which seems strange because that was the hardest thing for me to copy and it's required in the submitted log for the contest. The response is ended with BK (back to you):
X TU 5NN 5NN NC NC 7935 BK
The responding station returns something in kind. Sometimes they'll spare a nicety such as "GE" (for good evening). One of the calling stations also included the operators name of the responding station although I'll assume that was an automated macro that would look up the station OP name because there was no way he had time to look it up given the speed of the response. The QSO is ended using the QRP response:
TNX 72 K
And that's it. None of the typical exchanges in the CW QSOs I've listened to, not even the station's call at the end of the transmission which I thought was an FCC requirement.
Conclusion
So for any other new CW operators out there tying to figure out what they are supposed to respond with in a contest hopefully this helps. Submitting logs for the contest is also a bit arcane but at least the NAQCC web page gives very clear instructions on how to do that.
I'm not really a competitive type person so I don't foresee getting the bug to be a competitive contestor but I do see the value in participating to increase your copy and sending skills so I'll keep giving these sprints a try. I appreciate NAQCC sponsoring them.
KX3 Displaying some sent code and a Palm Single paddle in front, magnetically attached to a steel base
As I've learned the code one problem area, early on, was dealing with words that started with characters that were all DITS. I'm probably not alone in having my puny brain overloaded when I am trying to head copy words that start with DITS. I would panic because the all-dits character would fly by and I'd get fixated on trying to figure out what that was and miss the rest of the word.
To overcome DIT panic, I started training on the all DIT characters of E, I, S and H
Using https://lcwo.net/ I'd configure it to send only those characters, and practice them alone. Then I started creating words that began with DIT characters and I'd practice recognizing them.
After two and half years I still get tripped up on occasion but I'm doing much better.
I also like to practice sending DITS. The following sentence is fun to practice: "SHE IS 55 ES IS HIS SISTER"
So how do you deal with DIT overload?
That's all for now.
So lower your power and raise your expectations...
I've had a week to appreciate the Kent Hand Key. I am in no way an expert on straight keys since the only "straight key" I've used before was my junky, pressed steel, MFJ practice key.
Here is the Kent sitting in front of a MFJ practice key... Maybe I'm compensating for something...
Viva La Difference
I had used my MFJ practice key on maybe 10 actual on-air conversations. It wasn't confidence inspiring due to its mushy, wobbly nature. However I can draw some comparisons. The MFJ key is closer to an "American" style key where the knob is low down and flat where the operator rests their forearm on the desk and operates via the action of their wrist. I spoke with proprietor of Morse Express at length when I was ordering my Palm Single Key regarding what type of Straight Key / Hand Key he recommended and his preference was for the European style of key such as the Kent.
This article (What are American and European “styles?”) from the Morse Express website goes into great detail concerning the differences between the European and American sending styles as well as the difference in keys used. To summarize, having the key low and operating from the wrist was found long ago to cause wrist injury after extended use. In response to this; side operated keys such as the Vibroplex Bug and "Cootie" side-swiper were introduced. The Europeans took a different approach by raising the key and operating it from the edge of the desk such that the operator's arm is in free space and the action of the wrist is greatly lessened as it transfers to the arm and shoulder. The difference in styles requires different motions of the hand and arm. Some people prefer one over the other and some just like to switch between them as the mood strikes.
I looked at a lot of different straight keys on the web but didn't have the opportunity to try any in person. I chose the Kent mainly because I wanted the European style and I just liked the way it looked.
I emailed Robert Kent at Kent Engineering and asked him questions about the Kent Hand Key. I wanted to know the age of my key and the type of wood used in the base.
The base is wood, obviously, but I couldn't determine the type. Even after all these years it's quite fragrant, especially when the bottom cover is removed. Robert Kent told me they used all manner of woods over the years, basically whatever was available so who knows. It smells like Walnut to me but I didn't think Walnut was plentiful in England so it's probably something else. The wood base is weighted internally with two steel bars in a hollowed out section covered by the base plate. It weighs about 2.2lbs (1kg).
Kent Keys were manufactured in England from 1983 until around 2006, after which they contracted out the work to a firm in Germany. As best as I can determine from Robert, keys such as mine with the continuity strap on top were manufactured in England. Those with the strap on the bottom were kitted or made in Germany as is the current model. These keys look very similar to the type used to send the SOS on the ill fated Titanic.
Continuity Strap assures a good electrical connection from arm to base
The terminals are wired internally under the base plate to the posts at the rear. The post have knurled knobs for securing either eyelets or bare wires into holes in the rear of the post.
Name Plate: KENT Preston England PR46BY
My hookup wire is an old lamp cord
The anvil and striker are heavy duty and produce a "clack" in operation duly amplified by the wooden base. Some reviews on eHam find this a real detractor and if I operated within earshot of my family they would likely not appreciate its music as much as I do.
The Kent CLACKER !!
The business end of the key is solid brass with a brushed finish. This key is at least a decade old and the finish has held up well. The arm is SOLID stuff, no bending is going to occur no matter how HAM fisted you are (pun intended).
Yep that's a thick piece 'o brass
The sealed bearings are sturdily secured to the frame. There is absolutely no side-to-side motion as the key is being used. Tension is maintained by a spring in the base that pulls down on the rear of the bar. This keeps the bearings tensioned more evenly than a pusher spring in the front would (from what I read). All the adjustments use finely pitched screws with knurled knobs. It can be adjusted to an extremely small gap and tension can be adjusted from a butterfly's wing to longbow pull given the leverage of the spring. The larger the gap of course the more cacophony the key makes in operation. As my form keeps changing I find that I keep adjusting it to fit.
The "Navy Style" knob is a two piece hard rubber monster of a thing. When my key first arrived, the knob had oxidized with some white discoloration but oils from my hand have turned it dark again. It is very slightly dished on top with a good height for a proper grip. Some people seem to like to replace the bottom section with a poker chip but I don't think I'd want that to be rough edged.
The base plate is sturdy metal, covered with green felt/blaze. The screws secure the rubber feet and plate to the base. Removing the plate gains access to the wiring and screws securing the components and bar holding the spring.
Alright, I'm admittedly no expert in these things but I have to say that I'm very pleased with this key. All my contacts this week have been made using this key and it's beginning to feel like an extension of my arm. I'm very pleased. The only negatives I can find with it is the racket it makes in operation but with headphones on or the sidetone turned up it's of no concern to me and for some reason I'm growing to like the noise. If you operate in a room adjacent to family members it may cause some consternation. Also of concern is it's size and the operating style requires you to have it near the edge of your desk, so if you're not willing to dedicate that space it wouldn't be right for you. It is also larger than my KX3 radio so I certainly wouldn't classify this as a "portable" key however I'd have no concerns over its durability for transport. You could probably throw it in your trunk and take a long trip without any wear for the worse on the Kent.
I do plan to eventually try some other keys. Junker's seem to be popular choices as well as Nye's. I briefly tried a friend's Vibroplex Bug and don't feel that it's a good choice for a new CW operator (at least for me). I've also tried using my Palm Single as a side-swiper and that's not natural to me either.
Lastly here's a video I already posted of a QSO I made using the Kent Hand Key. It will allow you to hear its "clacking" albeit at a slow speed.
My internet comes in at a corner of the house. In that room I have my cable modem and a WIFI router. Unfortunately the WIFI is seemingly non-existent at the other end of my house and especially in the upper floor opposite the WIFI router. I tried re-orienting it and different antennas to no avail.
As a solution, I purchased an Ethernet over powerline adapter. This routed the Ethernet through the house wiring to receivers plugged into outlets at points where the WIFI was weak, thus providing Internet access to those rooms. The model I purchased also had ethernet ports which I needed for some of my older devices.
Ethernet over powerline seemed like an ideal solution.
Typical Ethernet over powerline adapter
All was well until a few months ago... I noticed a broadband noise on 40m and 80m in my shack. I turned off the power to the house and switched to battery on my KX3 and the noise was gone. So the interference was coming from my house.
The Search
I restored the power and fired up my Yaesu HT which has general coverage receive and tuned it to 7030kHz. I walked around the house and conducted a bit of a fox-hunt for the offending noise. The noise occurred at every outlet in the house !!!
I tracked it down to one of the Ethernet powerline receivers. I unplugged it from the wall and discovered blissful silence. I figured it had just gone bad. It was out of warranty so back to the store I went and purchased another set. This time it was a different brand, as the first one was no longer carried. I installed the new adapters and everything was fine... for a time.
Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me
This week the noise returned with a vengeance. Being wiser I went straight to the new adapter and unplugged it. Yep it had gone bad again. It was in warranty but I'd learned my lesson. Whatever sort of RF filtering these devices have doesn't last. Something zaps them. I can't plug the receiver into a AC line filter because it stops it from receiving the Ethernet over powerline.
So out they came and back to the electronics store I went. This time I purchased a WIFI extender with Ethernet ports built-in. I'm back to blissful RF quiet (to a degree) at my QTH.
The moral of the story
If you have RF noise at your shack and you use these devices, check them out. They could be the S9 noise culprit. If you haven't bought them, take my advice and don't chance it.
I didn't think a WIFI extender would work for me because my laptop can't even detect the WIFI in some of my rooms but the WIFI extender (at least the Netgear model) seems to work well. I now have blessed Internet in every room and no more broadband RF noise.
That's all for now
So lower you power and raise your expectations (and rid yourself of pesky RF noise)
I've been considering ordering a 1 watter kit but I was concerned that it wouldn't be useful in the downward sunspot cycle.
1Watter board with initial 100nf caps installed and starting inventory of other parts. Not shown are the myriad toroids (fun, fun), transistors and pots.
So I spent some time this afternoon making 1 watt contacts on 20m and 40m with my Elecraft KX3 just to see what staying limited to that power would be like. I've made casual 1w contacts in the past but staying at 1watt was a good test for me.
It turned out that I had a plenty of answers to my 1 watt CQ calls and received reports that were only one or two points down from my report to the calling stations. The last station I worked dropped down to 300 milliwatts and I still copied him fine.
So I ordered a 1 watter kit for 40m from Kits and Parts today.
The 1 watter kit is significantly more involved to build than the Elecraft kits I've assembled to date. I hope to learn a lot from the build and alignment and I just might finally have a reason to buy an oscilloscope (hopefully my wife doesn't read this).
Update 2/20/2016: I received the kit yesterday. It includes 21 100nf SMT capacitors that the builder "highly recommends using". Optionally he supplies through-hole capacitors. I tried figuring out hold to hold the SMT part in place to solder for about 30 minutes and gave up. I don't have 3 hands. I'd have to have someone show me how to solder an SMT part. Even in the linked video to building the kit the builder used the through hole components so I don't know why the SMTs were supplied or were highly recommended. So I used the through hole capacitors.
Through hole versus SMT capacitors
I couldn't figure out how to solder the tiny SMT capacitors
1watter board with the 21 through hole 100nf caps installed
Inventory of resistors
Next step was installing resistors. There are six 1/8w resistors missing in the kit:
R3,9,21,22 (470)
R12 (1.2K)
R14 (4R7)
I haven't built enough kits to have spares like this so I sent them a note and will see how long it takes to get the resistors. I haven't inventoried the rest of the parts yet but so far I'm a bit disappointed. I have built 4 kits from Elecraft and one from 4-State QRP and all of those kits had all the parts. Although in the case of 4-State QRP one of the plastic knobs was broken in shipment. They sent me another in 3 days.
